Five years ago, the local government and bishop asked if the artist Santi Moix might come and paint the interior of St. Victor, the village’s 1,100-year-old Romanesque church, whose plain stone walls had become dull and decrepit over time. Moix, who isn’t religious, was reluctant. Finally, after many months of negotiations, he agreed — but only if he’d be granted full artistic license, free from conceptual obligations to church or state.